Navy Adult
Buying a suit for a job interview is an opportunity to start building the wardrobe that will take you up the corporate ladder. Don't think of an interview suit as a one-time investment that you won't see a return on-your interview suit can become a power suit.
Diane Gottsman of the Protocol School of Texas has these tips for suit shopping:
A single breasted, two-button suit is a classic and timeless staple to a man's professional wardrobe. Navy, medium gray, charcoal and black are all power colors. A more relaxed look can be achieved by wearing brown, medium blue and a khaki color palette.
If budget is not a factor, an additional three-button style is also a good choice. Today and over the next several years, the three-button suit is rapidly becoming a staple in the executive man's wardrobe.
A double breasted suit is normally recommended for tall, trim men, however, if the jacket is cut properly, the same look can be achieved for a medium or slight build. If the man has large hips or a broad mid-section, he should select a single-breasted jacket style.
The best fabric is 100% wool, tropical to medium weight. A wool blend of 55% polyester and 45% wool appears expensive but is not as durable. Cotton blends are discouraged because they wrinkle and are far less formal.
Blazers and Sportcoats
Blazer or sportcoat, what's the difference? A navy blazer is equivalent to a women's sweater set, says Gottsman. "Paired with a nice quality khaki trouser, it sends a professional message of success."
The sport coat, on the other hand, is more informal. A sportcoat is a good choice for a business retreat where an executive wardrobe is relaxed. Sportcoats do not require a tie. Wear them layered with other pieces like a plain oxford or an oxford and a sweater/vest.
The proper suit fit:
When starting a job or looking to impress the Powers-that-Be, a suit that fits well is extremely important. Even the most expensive suit will look cheap if it doesn't fit. Keep these guidelines in mind to ensure a great fit:
Alignment: If the buttons don't align when the jacket is closed, the jacket isn't a good fit. Avoid pocket bulge by never opening them (most come sewn shut ... leave them that way). Remember to always button from the top, leaving the last button undone.
How to Buy Trousers that Fit
The trousers you wear should complement your blazer or sportcoat. "Choose a trouser made of a fine quality fabric that doesn't wrinkle," Gottsman advises. "The hem should cover the back of the shoe with a full break in front. The same rule applies to the suit pant. When seated, the leg must never show. If the hem is too short, the top of the sock and calf will be inappropriately visible."
Building the Working Wardrobe
Ready to go shopping? Here's a quick-hit list of the basics every man needs in his working wardrobe:
Basic Wardrobe
• 5 Suits (navy blue, charcoal gray, pinstripe - lightweight worsted wool)
• 2 Sport coats (tweed, herringbone, navy)
• 2 Pair of dress slacks (navy blue, gray, dress khaki)
• 2 Pair of casual trousers for "Casual Friday" (not jeans)
• 2 Pullover sweaters
• 10 Pair of daytime socks (calf length)
• 1 Wool coat
• 1 Raincoat
• 7 Business dress shirts
• 7 Ties
• 3 Belts (black, brown, cordovan)
• 2 Pair good-quality daytime shoes (brown and black lace up - no rubber soles)
• 2 Pair casual shoes (good quality leather loafers or lace up)
The Details
You've heard it before, it is all in the details. Accessories are just as important as all of the other pieces; in fact, they can make or break an ensemble. These items will get more coverage in the next guide, but as a guideline, here are some tips from Diane Gottsman:
• Watch: link or black/brown leather
• Umbrella
• Jewelry: one ring
• Fragrance: minimal, a clean scent is best, absolutely no musks.
• Briefcase: good quality leather
• Leather portfolio
• Good quality writing pen
• Cuff links
• Pocket square: matches or compliments tie
Shoes and Socks
You can tell a lot about a person by the condition of his shoes. Attention to every detail means a well cared for leather shoe, with a clean and polished heel. A good quality, brown or black leather lace up shoe, with a leather sole, is a staple in every executive's shoe collection. Leather loafers are appropriate but make an outfit more casual, so wear with caution. Shoes with buckles also imbibe a less formal look.
Socks should be calf length, in a natural fiber of wool, cotton or silk blends. Solid colors or muted patterns that blend with the trouser are best. Argyles are considered business casual and should be worn with a more informal look.
Amy Covington is a fashion writer with a penchant for silk scarves, designer handbags and anything luxury. She also has sharp eye for men's fashion. Her men's fashion Blog covers the essentials on how to dress well, from silk ties and designer cufflinks, to work attire for men.
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